Tailoring! Still a thing!
(See below.)
With its structure and clean lines, tailoring makes us look more pulled together. More polished. More grown up. Like we know what we’re doing.
But as I have said before, there is just so much tailoring out there, you can go out and buy an ill-fitting polyester blend blazer from Uniqlo (no shade to Uniqlo, I wear so much Uniqlo and ill-fitting can happen at a $1000+ price point) and call it a day.
Collarless jackets, to me, is an evolution of where we are in tailoring. What to do when your 19 year old cousin is wearing the Glassons blazer with sneakers and white T-shirt. The lack of collar makes it a bit more casual and modern, and it also leans into the cardigan look.
This has been happening for a while and hasn’t quite yet hit peak ‘high street’ — yet. They are a bit Chanel-y. But, as much as Hedi Slimane frustrates me (more on that later, one day, today is not the day), his version of Celine has really drawn attention to this style — because yes, it’s basically ripped the Chanel-style jacket off.
Compare this Celine spring/summer 2023 look:
To Mary-Kate Olsen’s vintage Chanel looks one year at the Met Gala:
There are a lot of bad versions out there. I fear that as they become more popular, there will be uglier ones out there; you can get a hunch of how suspect it will be based on how the fabric looks in images. If there’s even the slightest level of doubt of how good the fabric will be, skip. Fabric is key!! Please, no glitter.
Here are my picks.
I haven’t seen any Goelia pieces in real life, but their ads have found me. This is 100% wool which looks promising.
As is this one, which is 90% wool from Farfetch. I like the contrast buttons too.
This is technically a more soft cardigan-style bomber but it does the trick. It’s just come back into stock and is a great weekend piece.
Chloé runway piece on Net-A-Porter. Chic. I like it worn with a skivvy too.
I love this one from Arket!! Sold out in most sizes, I’ve put myself on the notification list. (And, it’s wallet-friendly.) J.Crew also have a version of this.
This Sandro jacket in a FR 36 on Vestiaire looks promising. I know Sandro/Maje and the likes are so ubiquitous, but you can find good pieces from them.
A boucle-y, faux shearling kind of style from Reformation.
I love everything about this. Also from Reformation.
I’ve said this before, I’ve wanted this jacket for the longest time. Yes, the price is the deterrent, I am but human in a recession-vibe era.
Matilda Djerf has worn a jacket by this brand, Marcela London. It looks quite stiff, so best to wear this one with relaxed denim or flowy pants to play against its worn.
Another bomber-esque style, but it gives a similar look — this is from Mango. Mango usually does this style of collarless jacket well but what they have atm look a bit questionable quality-wise except for this one.
And, if you’re in the market for it — here’s a Celine one.
How to wear — 9 images to reference:
With a white T-shirt and jeans (go monochrome like Sofia Coppola in her Chanel jacket or do classic blue denim).
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