Rosie Huntington-Whiteley launches investment firm, a reminder that the Olsens aren't minimalist
And a larger-than-normal Shop section, because I know you've missed it.
I’ve had such an influx of new subscribers lately I’ve almost felt a bit daunted to send anything out because you want to live up to the hype, and you know, old habits die hard on wanting to do a decent job. Here’s my about me I started this Substack in 2021 off the back of my Instagram where I shared what I loved to read/shop/explore/listen/cook/eat — it is varied. I do it sparingly there now as I find it much easier to do it on Substack. It’s really what I would send to my friends — things I think they should buy because it’ll look great on them, articles they might like to read.
You can read more about my professional career on The Design Files, Bed Threads and Fashion Journal, or listen to an interview with me on the Shameless Bookclub Podcast (Apple or Spotify). I’m currently a brand consultant, which so many people say now, but specifically I focus on brand strategy, marketing, campaigns and go-to-market with a focus on fashion/beauty/lifestyle/FMCG, so what I do cover has that sort of slant, really. As I started as a fashion features editor writer — I was at Vogue for the majority of my media career — I also write occasionally. Like here!
Here are some past few editions that give you a taste:
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READ: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has joined investment firm The Equity Studio, founded by investor Anna Sweeting, from WWD
I was initially going to just add the headline to a ‘quick links to read’ section, but there’s a greater trend of celebrities getting in on the investment game. They often invest in companies that are aligned to their interests, like entertainment or FMCG — it makes sense, that’s what they know, and as all investing guides tell you, you have to understand what you’re investing in!
Her approach is out of the ordinary. Private equity companies can sometimes force companies to grow too quickly, load them with debt, and then offload them at a loss if the strategy doesn’t work out. Sweeting is taking a different tack. “We’re being patient, creative and flexible.”
Sounds good, but maybe it’s all just talk so it’ll be fascinating to see how it eventuates.
Her beauty line btw I like a lot — her blushes are very nice and ooh I’ve just seen there’s new eyeshadow too.
LISTEN: Explosions in the sky
This is not a NEWEST LATEST HOTTEST recommendation but a band that I’ve returned to listening to as it’s great listening-while-working music. Purely instrumental, their music has so life, emotion and texture in it. Their hit, Your Hand In Mine, always sounds so atmospheric, airy and immersive to me in the best, non-boring way, from the bare-boned introduction to where it starts to layer. I’ve been listening to it on repeat since it came out in 2003. Apparently its songs are in a lot of One Tree Hill episodes, but I wouldn’t know as I’ve never watched it.
Listen to it if you like Durutti Column and Cocteau Twins. (PS if into Durutti Column, I’ve recommended this before but I love this Vini Reilly profile, one of the greatest guitarists of all time, and think about it a lot.)
They are also playing at Vivid Sydney.
EXPLORE: John Hayles on Shentel’s Instagram
My friend Shentel has been on a 10-day epic trip to LA with her family, which included spending time with their family friend John Hayles who is one of the most iconic Hollywood costume designers. Now in his 90s, he was head of custom costumes and tailor at Universal Studios, and created dresses for Marilyn Monroe (including THAT pleated dress worn over the grate) and so many more.
She’s shared snippets throughout her trip on Stories and her grid, but I loved this short IG reel she did where he measured her up to create a gown for her. Shentel has the MOST AMAZING eye for colour, composition and video editing as a ‘lay person’ (ie not an influencer!!! She is a graphic designer!) so I love watching her adventures online; I keep on saying she needs to upload her videos to TikTok so it’s only on IG so far — I will keep on trying to convince her!
From an article about Hayles in 1995:
Over the hills in Universal City, we find perhaps the busiest man on pre-Oscar day. Quietly celebrated in movieland for his ability to slim the waist and accentuate the bust, John Hayles is the head of the women's wardrobe workroom at Universal Studios. Mary Ellen Zemeckis, wife of Bob Zemeckis, the Oscar-nominated director of Forrest Gump, commissioned a copper satin gown from Hayles, and the creation, complete with underwired bodice and a cunning foundation garment incorporating a "crotch strap" to facilitate going to the loo, has been ready for a couple of weeks.
But Hayles is also sought out on pre-Oscar day to give Hollywood oomph to other designers' offerings. It is not a well-kept secret that he tweaks gowns by Calvin Klein - because styles that suit skinny catwalk models do not necessarily work on clients with bosoms of Los Angeleno proportions. He gets calls begging him to "do something with this" - even at the point when the limos that transport stars to the awards are drawing up outside their homes.
WATCH: The Gentlemen
This hits so many genres: comedy, drama, crime, heist-y, great costumes, fancy houses, a worthy soundtrack, plus add in a killer turn by Kaya Scodelario (remember her in Skins?!) and a devastatingly handsome Theo James. What else could you
This is probably the best thing I’ve watched on television for a very, very long time.
Also, it’s now making me want a Barbour jacket. I like the fashion-y, non-traditional take of this one below, but there’s only one left and so many Barbour pieces have sold out already.
READ: So long, skinny jeans. See you in the next cycle by Kai McNamee for NPR
A quick reminder of the trend cycle and what comes in will eventually go out. I used to do a ‘Hot or not’ page for Harper’s Bazaar when I was a junior burger fashion features assistant — back in 2012 my ‘hot or nots’ included culottes, backpacks and opera coats. Well, I don’t think opera coats are exactly having a moment, but everyone else has swung back around and out again time and time again.
Take grunge, for example. In 1992, fashion designer Marc Jacobs released a collection for Perry Ellis paying homage to the alternative rock movement of the Pacific Northwest.
That collection put the style's slouchy silhouettes and plaid flannels on the fashion map, Greer said.
"And then now all of a sudden, there's a Vogue editorial about grunge dressing," she said. "And now all these other people in mainstream culture start to adopt that."
Media and early adopters of a trend — like celebrities, influencers or your fashionable friend — spread the trend to the masses. At this point, retailers scramble to produce the clothes consumers want.
EXPLORE: At home with Rose Hanbury and the Marquess of Cholmondeley, by Harriet Quick for the Financial Times
In case you were wondering, the FT went into their home in 2023 and took photos. You’re welcome.
SHOP
My favourite pleat-front wide-leg pants are from Dries Van Noten that I bought on sale on Net-A-Porter. They’re cut long enough so that they’re pleasingly pool over the shoe (I’m 175cm/5’9” which is on the taller side but not INCREDIBLY tall and you would be surprised how many pants aren’t just long enough so this is very important to me.) They’ve re-cut them each season and I’m always tempted to buy another pair but none of the colours have stood out to me. Here’s the denim version that I’m eyeing off though, on sale at Ssense except it looks a bit shorter than usual. Incu has a similar one in black, in a size S (the pleat-front is a bit different).
You might have seen the Colomba Easter cake candle on my Instagram Stories — how fun is this baguette candle? It’s from Emporean online.
This Margaux bag dupe by South Korean brand Monorow is worth a second look, especially at this price, which is under US$200/AU$300 (really). It’s made of recycled leather so reviews have said it’s quite a bit shinier and stiffer, but lightweight. The smaller size is also very cute.
Everyone is wearing and talking about Harris Tapper (well not everyone, but you know what I mean) — I bought the Chamberlain top and it’s just arrived (fits regular to slightly large IMHO) for one, and this chocolate coat looks lush — and it’s on sale!
This came through on an eDM and I clicked on the product shot because I’m into this chocolate colour now without realising where it was from; spoiler alert, be prepared for sticker shot because it’s from The Row. It’s not leather. You’re welcome.
As the weather starts cooling down in Sydney, I’m getting into fancy rugby sweaters, like this cashmere one from Kule (on sale). For references, see here.
Looks like Prada/The Row/Khaite [insert topical brand] but it’s not; it’s like a smidge of the price, from Arket.
Cos has so many good pieces at the moment and I can’t resist a cape. I tried this draped cape on and it looks even better in person. You can wear it as it is or belt it — belts are huge this season — I can’t wait for the weather to cool down.
I need another coat like I need a hole in my head, but I’m really into this tobacco colour which I tried on in store. It’s also from Cos.
AND A REMINDER…
I’ve been seeing on TikTok and social media comments about how the Olsens have a minimalist style. I’d just like to remind everyone that that’s not necessarily the case; I would argue that they have a great eye for texture, print, colour, balance and shape, and sometimes they’re not strictly minimal at all.
Here are some of their past Met Gala looks:
I just wanted to say thank you for this week’s newsletter. I really enjoyed it.
I wouldn’t bother with the Barbour purchase, I bought the gilet from Net a Porter and the quality of old Barbour is just not there. I agree, the costuming in The Gentleman is on point. I spend a third of my life on farm so love the looks.
Scanlan has some great coats and capes atm - yes, x-ier than COS but excellent detailing. Happy weekend and thanks again